PLAIN SAILING
The best way to Sardinia’s coastline is by yacht, and the good news is you don’t even need to know how to sail
Text by Daniel Elkan
Photography: Daniel Elkan e Mathew Haynes
Agleaming white yacht slices through the water and anchors just off an inviting, deserted beach. One by one, the crew dive gleefully off the back of the boat into the calm sea and swim towards the golden sand…
Do you think this scene couldn’t be you? I did. Mistakenly, I’d imagined that sailing was something enjoyed only by experienced nautical types with wads of cash to fritter. But – as I happily discovered in Sardinia – that is a myth.
Designed by
Philippe Briand,
Jeanneau 45 is 14
metres long and
can host up to
eight peopleEven if you have never stepped foot on a boat in your life, you can safely charter your own yacht by hiring a skipper to do the sailing for you. And if you are prepared to share the boat with a few friends, it becomes a surprisingly affordable holiday.
The jewel in Italy’s sailing crown is undoubtedly Sardinia, with 2,000 km of coastline and a plethora of smaller neighbouring islands. The organiser of our holiday, Mario Delitala, director of Sardinian travel specialists Motus, advised us to explore the region of Gallura on the north east coast, which has an archipelago of over 60 nearby islands, some inhabited, some not. With a yacht booked by Mario through Boomerang Charter, we sail from Portisco, a marina 20 minutes’ drive from Olbia.
The thrill of sailing soon becomes apparent to us all. We can choose our own itinerary, deciding where to head on a day-to-day, moment-to-moment basis. Our first destination is not Sardinia, in fact, but Bonifacio on the southern tip of Corsica.
The five-hour trip is the first of much time spent lounging on deck, gazing out across the sea or peeking at the passing islands. The novice sailors among us soon learn that time spent below deck while at sea can make them feel seasick, but above deck it is more tolerable. Being at sea is meditative; time slows down, measured only in the gentle pitching of the boat and lapping of waves around you.
We pause en route at small islands such as Cala di Volpe and Mortorio, playing in the water around the flesh-coloured rocks. The beach is shared with a handful of other fellow yachters and only the temperature of the water – which can be a bit nippy at times – stops us spending too much time snorkelling.
The approach to Bonifacio takes you past long stretches of white chalk cliffs. To the right, the old town perches precariously on the edge, seeming ready at any moment to collapse into the water below. Further on, the old town’s formidable ninth-century citadel towers above, making an imposing introduction.
The old town is the place to head to eat. The walk up is steep, but the views of the port on one side and crumbling cliffs on the other are spectacular. We find a wonderful restaurant, Apolite, where we sample inventive takes on traditional Corsican fare, all dreamed up by the owner, Delphine; the tapas is a delicious medley of roasted peppers with sultanas and cinnamon, humus with cumin, and green olives and smashed almonds.
Scenes from a life on the waves, in Gallura, Sardinia
The next day we make the three-hour trip back to Sardinia to La Maddalena, the capital of Maddalena Island and the setting for next year’s G8 summit. We wander around the charming little streets, hunting for fresh supplies for breakfast and lunch on the boat.
Our favourite snack quickly becomes pane carasau, the crispy, flatbread that is a speciality of Sardinia. In small towns like this, we find the locals to have an easygoing, friendly manner. That night’s treat is a desert of seadas, a Sardinian desert of cheese, pastry and honey, washed down with a shot of mirto, a local liqueur.
Sailing leaves you at the mercy of the weather. Though summer in Sardinia usually means sunshine all week, for us it didn’t. Strong winds greeted our arrival in Portisco on the first day, and our skipper Anna had sensibly advised that we should wait in the shelter of the marina until it became calmer instead of braving choppy seas.
We console ourselves with cappuccinos in the pretty cafés along the marina waterfront and card games in our yacht’s cosy lounge. Though the cabins are small, they have a bijou feel, and the below-deck kitchen lounge is compact but cosy. The limits on space and privacy mean that sailing with friends becomes a team effort, with tidiness a prize asset.
Archivolto restaurant and its gastronomic delicatessen
Journeying back to the mainland to check out the marina of Porto Rotondo, we defy a sudden downpour to dance on deck playing Beach Boys tunes on the boat’s stereo system.
Daniel ElkanHaving spent a week sampling Sardinia’s coastline, we cannot resist the temptation to spend a couple of days a few miles inland. Mario has selected a wonderful spot for us: San Pantaleo. Most guidebooks do not even give it a mention, but this charming village is only 20 minutes’ drive into the hills from the glamorous Costa Smeralda, the showy playground of millionaire yacht owners.
San Pantaleo’s piazza is pure unpretentious charm. At any time of day or evening, a blend of locals and visitors sit al fresco at Caffe Nina which serves up olives, cheese and honey on freshly made pane carasau. The Hotel Arathena makes a gorgeous base, with a sunny courtyard pool looking out across the hills opposite and a magnificent restaurant. Climbing through the dense vegetation on the hill walk nearby, we glimpse the Sardinian coast and islands beyond it, all awaiting further exploration. Had the weather been better overall, we would have had the chance to anchor at night in little bays rather than needing the shelter of marinas. Nevertheless, between sailing and a trip inland, I can truly say we enjoyed the best of Sardinia without being millionaires.
HOW TO BOOK
Motus Travel
+39 079 200 5082 www.motus.sardinia.it
Boomerang Yachting Charter
+39 0789 24293 www.boomerangcharter.com
Boomerang offers skippered charters from €2,680 for a week (prices valid 23 August to 13 September) and then €2,180 for a week (prices valid 14 September to 31 December)
Hotel Arathena
+39 0789 65451 www.arathena.it